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Making Windows & Doors
About Truespace Archives
These pages are a copy of the official truespace forums prior to their removal somewhere around 2011.
They are retained here for archive purposes only.
Making Windows & Doors // Archive: Tech Forum
Post by Dragneye // Sep 6, 2007, 11:17pm
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Dragneye
Total Posts: 602
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What have you all found the best way to make a window in a wall? Just the cut out (and with the intention to add glass, have it reflect, and/or be able to see inside from various angles).
I've tried a variety of ways, and run into various headaches with each method. Sounds so simple, and it shouldn't be as hard as I'm makin it. I evidently have a brain block with this one. Any help? |
Post by Nez // Sep 6, 2007, 11:44pm
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Nez
Total Posts: 1102
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I admit that I normally just boolean a cube out of the wall to form the opening (can occasionally be problematic, but usually OK onstraight walls); I normally form a window frame that is marginally larger than the opening to ensure there are no gaps around the edge, and a pane of glass slightly smaller, such that it's edges are hidden by the frame. Usually have to spend some time fiddling with the glass settings to get either no shadow from the glass, or a transparent shadow (enabling transparent shadows on the relevant light). Getting a subtle reflectivity in their helps too...
Does that all make sense? |
Post by Jack Edwards // Sep 7, 2007, 2:54am
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Jack Edwards
Total Posts: 4062
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Here's a technique for cutting a hole in a wall. It uses snapping tools and orthographic views. For some reason I've only been able to get this to work with orthographic views so you may have to rotate your model to match an orthographic view to get it to work.
Also keep in mind you have to press the enter key to complete the bridge tool.
If the bridge tool chokes on you, you can create the hole by deleting the two window faces then select each pair of interior edges and use the add face tool for each of the four interior faces. |
Post by weaveribm // Sep 7, 2007, 4:11am
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weaveribm
Total Posts: 592
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Nice Jack!
I've done one windows job Dragneye and I started out by Booleaning the holes as Nez notes. But as he also notes there can be problems, I ended up with an odd triangle in the front face that caught the light I had to rebuild it about four times :)
Watch out for getting the size of the windows right compared with the size of the front wall or else when you try to change the size of the front wall the window gap changes size. Ten more times lol. It's very easy to change everything though by using Workspace point edit tools, I didn't know about them at that time
I'd strongly advise you to try out the Workspace tools Dragneye, as Jack is showing you they really are very useful/powerful
Peter |
Post by prodigy // Sep 7, 2007, 4:42am
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prodigy
Total Posts: 3029
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LOL Jack... want to challenge with my video?? :D |
Post by Jack Edwards // Sep 7, 2007, 6:26am
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Jack Edwards
Total Posts: 4062
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LOL :D
Maybe we should record our speed model challenge entries like Nowherebrain does. Take the challenge up a level. ;)
-Jack. |
Post by weaveribm // Sep 9, 2007, 11:25pm
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weaveribm
Total Posts: 592
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CPU clock speed must be specified. Doping allegations. :)
Can the 2D Editor be used for extruding a wall with a hole I wonder? Topologically it could be asking for trouble I bet
I'm musing about that Dragneye because I'm going to be making a picture frame next and those sections one can possibly make look interesting for building design too - door and window frames I mean. Skirting boards. I beams :)
Peter |
Post by Jack Edwards // Sep 10, 2007, 6:46am
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Jack Edwards
Total Posts: 4062
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Hehe guess I'm disqualified. :p
My CPU is a 1.8 GHz dual core Xeon over clocked to erhm uh... 3.3 GHz.... :D |
Post by weaveribm // Sep 10, 2007, 10:28am
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weaveribm
Total Posts: 592
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1.8 GHz overclocked to 3.3 GHz
Suggest fire extinguisher model on standby :)
Peter |
Post by Jack Edwards // Sep 10, 2007, 1:37pm
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Jack Edwards
Total Posts: 4062
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Naw not that bad. It's completely air cooled.
Copper heat pipe solution for both the CPU and the Northbridge chipset (which is overvolted to 1.59 volts if I remember right).
Of course when I call this system custom, I mean "dremel tool" custom LOL, I had to cut away parts of the CPU heatsink mounting to get it to fit because of the FREAKIN' HUGE capacitors this board has around the CPU and the fan set up is my own design. I cut away the metal and plactic in front of the bottom front fans to allow better air flow. And speaking of making windows and doors (to stay on topic with the thread :p ) that's a 250mm fan on the side of the case that has it's own screen door. The tS 7.0 point edit tools weren't cutting it for me so had to resort to 36,000 RPM dremel madness ;)
http://forums1.caligari.com/truespace/showthread.php?t=2179
:D |
Post by classic12 // Sep 11, 2007, 2:01am
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classic12
Total Posts: 243
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i have a regular pc..... *left out* |
Post by Jack Edwards // Sep 11, 2007, 2:22am
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Jack Edwards
Total Posts: 4062
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LOL :)
You only need that much power for software rendering: VRay, Lightworks, etc. For modeling and DX9 rendering anything with a decent (geforce 6600 or better) video card is fine for running trueSpace.
7.5 runs fine on my Pentium M 1.7 GHz laptop which has a geforce 6600go video card. But as expected render times are a fair bit longer.
I built that system to:
1.) save a lot of money and still have the power I needed
2.) reuse (abuse;)) an old case
3.) because it looked fun :D
-Jack. |
Post by Dragneye // Sep 11, 2007, 6:07pm
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Dragneye
Total Posts: 602
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One of the ways that I tried (and got stumped in the end, adjusting this point, or this or that line) took me an hour (ie: I hi-lite a square, extrude, not 'outwards' but Into the wall). All I was tryin' to do was make a dang hole!... it shouldn't be so hard! lol
Anyways, I did find that Booleaning to opposite wall was the way to go (Nez, though you mentioned it as 'matter of factly', until I read it in your post here, that was NOT one of the ways I had tried. A simple comment can change my workflow, and work speed in an instant) Thank you for mentioning it. I know I should have known this (researched the manual one more time for the umpthhh time and dang it... there was my answer all along. Another 'Duhhh' moment for my archives)
I've done a bunch of models so far, but never needed to make a hole till now. Funny. --- I digress
Jack, your way was showing me in 7x, but I still trying to milk (and learn) 6.6. I couldn't catch what tool you used (that was used inside the box). Is there a comprable one in 6.6?
Weaver, that was one of my problems that would show up using other ways I tried. So all these lil headaches for a dang hole
I also did try to delete face, create vertices/edges to opposite wall, but couldn't get it to work accurately so... so far, Boolean subtract face to opposite wall is the way.
Any others? |
Post by Jack Edwards // Sep 11, 2007, 6:18pm
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Jack Edwards
Total Posts: 4062
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Hmm....6.6 eh.... well except for the snapping part to align the verts... you could use polydraw to draw the edge for the whole.... oh hey, after drawing the outline for the hole on the one side, you could cut the wall in half, mirror model it, freeze the mirror, then delete the faces for the hole. Use the add edges tool to connect the verts, then add face to make the interior polys and you're all set. ;)
The tools I used workspace side were just the polydraw tool, the delete elements tool, and the bridge tool if I remember correctly. |
Post by Dragneye // Oct 16, 2007, 5:50pm
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Dragneye
Total Posts: 602
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Thanx for that Jack.
(had gone away. Just got back, so my apoligies for the lack of quick response) |
Post by Cthulhu // Oct 16, 2007, 6:55pm
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Cthulhu
Total Posts: 48
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OK, this tutorial is for 3DS Max, but the concept works for tS as well.
http://www.cgarchitect.com/resources/tutorials/smoke3d/tutorial13.asp
For tS, invert your normals of a cube and turn on single sided rendering. Also, right-click one of the selection icons (freehand, rectangle, lasso) and uncheck "Backside" so you can select the walls.
Then turn the bevel tool into an inset tool by right-clicking it and setting the bevel angle to 90 degrees. Now you can just bevel one of the walls down to make the window. From there it's all extrudes, insets, and scaling. Just delete the final face that ends up outside the window then add glass.
Below you can see that extruding gives you the depth, and insetting/scaling faces in and out create the trim.
8973
8974 |
Post by Burnart // Oct 16, 2007, 8:32pm
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Burnart
Total Posts: 839
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Nice idea - never thought about doing it that way. Good simple explanation well done. :jumpy: |
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